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Making Cassoulet on a Weekday

Crazy you say? I had my duck leg confit and fresh garlic sausages all ready to go, how could I NOT do it?!?!

I have a little crush on duck at the moment. It smells nice. And the fat on that bird. Intoxicating. Glorious. I feel like I haven't even begun to explore all of the wonderful ways to prepare duck. But how can I make anything without first making Cassoulet? 

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I quick soaked the beans this morning before taking Anya out to play. I returned to them in the afternoon and cooked them in duck stock and aromatics. How much warmer this rainy day became after I could smell the stock simmering away! I pulled the meat from the bones of the duck legs and added the bones to the simmering beans. I used a bit of the duck fat to brown the sausages and then to sauté some garlic-y bread crumbs. Fresh bread crumbs in duck fat. oh yes. I combined the meat and beans (removing the bones), topped the beans and meat with the toasted bread, and baked the whole thing for an hour.

I can't speak for the authenticity of this dish. I've never had cassoulet in France. But I have had it here. Recently, in fact, at a good restaurant. Their cassoulet does not hold a candle to this. The beans in the recipe hold their shape and do not become starchy mush. It is a little bit brothy and rich, but without making you feel bloat-y (or like you're going to have a heart-attack) after eating it. One smallish portion is satisfying, which means there will be leftovers tomorrow. Lucky me!

While the recipe requires a greater time investment than the average dinner, it is well worth it. And, to be honest it is an "easy" cassoulet recipe, so it takes much less time than others you will find.

Added bonus: Kids devoured it!

Cassoulet
--adapted from The Gourmet Cookbook
Will feed 6 or more as a main course 
2-1/2 cups dried white beans
7 cups cold water
3 cups duck stock 
2 cups chopped onion (about 1 large onion)
2 TBS finely chopped garlic
Two 1-1/2 inch slices from the green part of a leek
4 sprigs fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
3 whole cloves
3 fresh sprigs of flat leaf parsley
a half dozen black peppercorns
1 - 14 oz can of whole peeled tomatoes, drained and chopped
4 legs of duck confit, at room temperature
1 lb fresh garlic sausages
Bread Crumb Topping
1 TBS chopped garlic
2 cups fresh, coarse breadcrumbs, from a baguette 
1/3 cups fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
Salt & Pepper to taste

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Soak beans overnight or use quick soak method (cover beans with two inches of water, bring to a boil, turn off heat, put a cover over the beans and let them sit for 1 hour or more). 

Drain the beans and put them back into a large cooking pot or dutch oven. Add duck stock, water, onions, garlic and bring to a boil. Make a bouquet garni of the leek, thyme, bay leaf, cloves, parsley and peppercorns tied in a piece of cheesecloth. Turn the beans down to a simmer and add the bouquet garni to the pot. Continue cooking at a simmer (uncovered) until the beans are nearly tender: 45 minutes to an hour. 

Add the tomatoes and simmer 15 minutes more.

Preheat the oven to 350F. 

Meanwhile, remove the duck legs from the fat they were cooked in, scrapping away excess fat. Spoon the fat into a saucepan and melt over low heat. Pull the meat off the bones and add the bones to the simmering beans. Deposit the meat in a medium bowl. When the fat has melted, ladle about 1/4 cup of it into a heavy frying pan and turn the heat to medium high. When the pan is hot at the sausages and brown them for 15 - 20 minutes. Remove the sausages from the pan and add them to the bowl containing the duck meat. 

Turn the pan down to medium and add the garlic for the bread crumb topping. Sauté for a moment and let the aroma release, add the bread crumbs and toast them in the pan, turning them over frequently so the small pieces don't burn. Remove the pan from the heat and add the parsley, salt, and pepper. 
Remove the bones and the bouquet garni from the pot. Using a ladle or slotted spoon (do not drain! you will need the liquid!), transfer the beans to a deep ceramic (oven-safe) casserole or dutch oven, distribute the meats amidst the beans. Add the stock from the beans until it is just even with the top of the meat and bean mixture. Do not submerge the beans and meat. Sprinkle the bread crumbs evenly over the top. Bake, uncovered, for one hour.

NOTE: To make a day ahead, be sure to cook the sausages fully to 150F before adding them to the cassoulet. Combine the beans and meat and let the mixture cool to room temperature. Spread the bread crumb topping over the cooled casserole, cover and refrigerate. Remove from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before cooking, then bake as directed at 350F for one hour. 

Be sure to strain the melted duck fat back into jars when finished. You can use the fat at least a couple of times in confits (or for whatever you may need it for) before it goes bad.  

Filed under  //   beans   duck   pork   sausage  

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Duck Prosciutto with White Beans

Wondering what to do with the duck prosciutto and duck stock you just made (or plan on making)? 

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I love the combination of duck and white beans, so last night I threw a few things together and was pretty happy with the results. 

This recipe was the result of total experimentation. I had a little help from my new copy of The Flavor Bible on a couple of ideas. Of course, we all have a concept--based on our eating habits and culinary experience--about foods (and herbs and spices) that compliment one another, but The Flavor Bible is an detailed exploration and marvelous book-length compendium of flavor harmonies. In a practical sense, it gives you a great deal of freedom to use what you have on hand and many, many options when you're staring into your pantry desperately trying to create something out of "nothing."

I knew I wanted to use my duck stock, duck prosciutto, and white beans. So I looked up duck in The Flavor Bible and found, under "Flavor Affinities," "duck+cloves+garlic+orange+prunes+red wine." I didn't have any prunes and I wanted to use kumquats instead of oranges, but I used this suggestion to get started. Here's what I ended up with:

Duck Proscuitto with White Beans

2 cups dried white beans, soaked*
5 cups duck stock
1 bay leaf
3 whole cloves
4 whole peppercorns, crushed with the back of your kitchen knife
1 TBS olive oil or duck fat
3 kumquats, minced (about 1 heaping TBS)
2 shallots, minced (about 2 TBS)
1 TBS port
salt to taste

3-5 thin slices duck prosciutto per serving

Using pre-soaked white beans (either traditional overnight soak, or quick soak: cover beans with 2 inches of water, bring to a boil over high heat, cover and turn off heat and let the beans sit for one hour, drain them and they are ready to use), cover with duck stock. Add bay leaf, clove, crushed black peppercorns. Bring all to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 45 minutes, adding water occasionally if needed. At around 40 minutes of cooking time you will begin to notice that some of the beans begin to break down. I love this creamy consistency. If you don't, taste for doneness and as soon as the beans are cooked just right for you, take them off the heat. If you're like me keep the beans on the heat for 5 or 10 minutes more, stirring periodically to keep the beans from burning on the bottom. 

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Meanwhile, just before the beans are done, put the olive oil in a small skillet over medium high heat. When the oil is hot add the shallots and kumquats and sauté for 3 minutes or so. Add the port and stir the mixture for a minute more or until the port is absorbed and the alcohol has evaporated. Add the shallot, kumquat mixture to the beans. Salt to taste (in my opinion, white beans require a little extra salt.) Remove the bay leaf from the beans and serve them topped with thin slices of duck prosciutto. 

The beans are very subtly flavored and are really quite different from white beans made with water or pork stock. Not to mention the unbeatably lovely aroma of duck stock filing the kitchen. The kids devoured the meal; though, they had one slight misconception--that the duck was bacon--I did not bother to correct. I made a simple salad of butter leaf lettuce, olive oil, and light sprinkling of fleur de sel--topped with some very delicious, fresh, tiny mandarins the girls picked out at the market--as an accompaniment. 

Filed under  //   beans   duck  

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What's in the Pantry?

 

After the holidays, I admit, my motivation for cooking anything very challenging or creative is pretty low. I tend make a lot of old stand-byes and cobble together easy dishes out of whatever I have on hand. 

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Tonight was one of those cobbling nights and we ended up with a lovely dish of black-eyed peas. 

Pantry Peas

1+c dried black eyed peas
2 thick (or 4 thinner) slices of bacon, diced
1 small (or 1/2 large) yellow onion, diced
1/2 red pepper, diced
1 medium carrot, diced
stock or water to cover
1 small bunch leafy greens (chard, kale, collards), sliced in ribbons
Salt and Freshly Ground Pepper to taste

Soak the black-eyed peas and drain.* Set aside.

Put the bacon in a soup pot over medium heat until it gets a little color and renders some fat. Add the onions, carrots, and red pepper and sauté until the onions are soft and beginning to turn golden. Pour in the black-eyed peas and mix thoroughly. Cover with water or stock, bring to a simmer and cook gently for about 45 minutes or until the peas are cooked through and just starting to break up and give the soup some body. 

Add the greens and let them wilt. Season with salt and pepper as desired. Enjoy!

*Note: I almost exclusively use the quick soak method for dried beans. Cover the beans with an inch or two of water. Bring the water to a boil. Cover the pot and turn off the heat. Leave for one hour (or more if you need to), then proceed with the recipe. 

 

Filed under  //   bacon   beans   pantry   soup  

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