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Seville oranges

 

Seville Orange Meringue Tart

Yesterday was a day full of new things and a LOT of experimenting in the kitchen. I worked on a few recipes that have great potential (to be posted soon) and one that was a knockout! 

At this point, there's no doubt that I'm dealing with a full-blown Seville orange addiction. I hit the jackpot yesterday with Seville Orange Meringue Tart. I was inspired by my neighbor, Wendy who brought us a few pieces of her fantastic Key Lime Pie on Sunday. Why not try it with sour oranges?! I couldn't wait to get crackin'! 

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The first place I went to look for recipes was David Lebovitz's blog (one of the best, if not the best food blog out there). I was greeted with a great recipe full of new and exciting challenges. First of all, Lebovitz recommends a French tart dough that is made with very hot melted butter. This technique runs completely contrary to the method most of use have used for years of cutting very cold butter into the flour. Once one clears the mental hurdles of preparing the dough in this manner, it is really very easy (just be careful handling the dish of hot butter). This is the most successful tart dough I've ever made (I can't wait to follow Lebovitz's suggestion to fill it with chocolate ganache...).

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I slightly adapted Lebovitz's wonderful Lime Meringue Tart recipe in order to use the Seville oranges. The filling is a basic curd recipe, without any milk, which I really like. It was also nice that after finishing the recipe I was left with only one unused egg white, instead of 3 (you could use the third white as well if you plan to cover the whole pie in a light blanket of meringue.) 

The next completely new technique I learned was making meringue on the stove. I have the Popeye forearm to prove my mettle. I'm thinking I should get a whisk tattooed over my brachioradialis and forearm flexors, just so people know why my arm looks so unbalanced. In any case, the meringue that results from this muscle building method is sooo smooth with just the right amount of stickiness. It is composed of tiny, densely packed air bubbles. The technique is not overly difficult and the results are very professional looking. The taste and texture are exquisite. My only word of caution is to watch the meringue every second when you brown it under the broiler. I was watching it like a hawk, then Emmy asked me if she could practice piping some of the leftover meringue on a piece of waxed paper and I turned away from my watch to get her started. WHAM-O! My meringue started burning!! I quickly rescued the pie with no flavor implications, but the meringue was a bit shy of perfection for it's dark color. 

I highly recommend using Lebovitz's French Tart Dough recipe. But if you would rather not, just use your own favorite tart dough recipe.

Seville Orange Tart
--adapted from David Lebovitz's Lime Meringue Tart

One pre-baked 9" tart shell

For the filling:
1/2 cup (one stick) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
3/4 cup Seville orange juice (about 4 good size oranges)
1/2 cup plus 3 TBS sugar
zest of one Seville orange
a pinch of salt
3 egg yolks
3 eggs

For the meringue (To cover the entire tart in a light covering of piped meringue use all three whites from the yolks above and a pinch more sugar):
2 egg whites
1/4 cup plus 1 TBS sugar
a pinch of salt
1/2 tsp vanilla

Preheat the over to 375F. 

Combine butter, orange juice & zest, sugar and salt in a saucepan over medium heat until the butter is melted and the mixture is just warm. 

Meanwhile, separate three eggs and set the white aside. Combine the three yolks with the three whole eggs and beat together with a fork or whisk. 

When the butter is warm, add 1/3 cup of the butter/juice mixture to the beaten eggs and yolks, whisking constantly. Now, turn the heat down to medium low and poor the slightly warmed egg mixture into the butter/juice/sugar combination in the saucepan, whisking away while you do it. Keep up the constant whisking while the curd forms (do not boil!! or you will get bits of cooked egg in your curd, which you can strain out if you need to, but easier not to). When the curd begins to thicken and coats the back of a spoon pour it into the pre-baked pie shell and bake at 375F for 10 minutes. 

While that tart is setting in the oven, get busy on the meringue. Put a saucepan of water on to simmer. Put the egg whites, sugar, and salt in the bowl of your stand mixer. Using the whisk attachment, beat the whites/sugar/salt until the white are foamy. Transfer the mixing bowl to set over the simmering water. Whisk away (dreaming all the while of Popeye forearms) until the whites reach 140F on an instant-read thermometer. Then bring the bowl and reattach it to the stand mixer and beat on high speed to cool the whites. After about 3 minutes, scrap down the sides of the bowl and add the vanilla. Beat another 3 minutes or so fully cool the dense and lovely meringue. Pipe, dollop, or spread the meringue on top of the set pie. 

Heat the broiler and VERY CAREFULLY AND ATTENTIVELY brown the meringue. 

Revel in the lip-puckering delights of Seville Orange Tart!

Filed under  //   Seville oranges   baking   pie  

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Seville Orange Ice Cream

The Seville orange obsession continues at JustPigs: a couple of days ago I made Seville orange ice cream. 

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The results, I must admit, were mixed. I adapted a recipe that I found online by Nigella Lawson (and translated for American kitchens at The Splendid Table). A minor aspect of the problem comes from my own futzing around. Nigella's recipe calls for 1 cup plus 2 TBS of powdered sugar. Personal laziness combined with a love of tart things, caused me to use only 1 cup. I later did a little reading up on ice creams and discovered that you really shouldn't reduce the amount of sugar in ice cream recipes. Sugar helps keep the ice cream from over-freezing (I did get a little crystallization, but not much). Also, from a flavor perspective, I do think the extra bit of sugar was needed. 

Another problem I continue to have with ice creams made with heavy cream is the fattiness. More specifically, the weird sensation--on one's tongue and the roof-of-the-mouth--of being coated in frozen butterfat. I've spent the last couple of days researching this and have a couple ideas about how to prevent it in the future. I would also love any suggestions people may have!!

From what I could find online, it's possible that I over-mixed the cream (although I did very thoroughly "lick the bowl" right afterwards and it tasted perfectly divine!). I may experiment in the future with half-and-half and milk to reduce the total fat. 

Another thing that occurred to me is I may not be allowing the ice cream to warm up enough before serving. I attempted patience yesterday and allowed a little more time for the ice cream to come up to a more scoop-able temperature. That did seem to help a bit. I also wonder if it could be an emulsion problem, but have no idea how to fix that. 

In any case, it's not inedible. We will most certainly eat it all. But I will attempt to correct these problems next time. My slight adaptations to Nigella's recipe are as follows: 

Seville Orange Ice Cream

2 cups heavy cream
1/2 cup half-and-half
1 cup powdered sugar (plus 2 TBS!)
Zest of 2 Seville oranges
Juice of 3 Seville oranges
1 TBS Cointreau

Put all the ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer. Using the whisk attachment, beat the cream to stiff peaks (be careful not over-beat!).Put the whipped cream in a bread loaf pan and cover with plastic wrap. Leave 3-5 hours to freeze. Remove from the freezer 20 minutes before serving to let the ice cream soften up a bit. 

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Filed under  //   Seville oranges   ice cream  

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MAKE IT! Longaniza

Longaniza is a pork sausage related to chorizo. The version I propose making (and there are many, from the Philippines, to South America, to Spain) is from Southeastern Mexico. Longaniza, like chorizo, comes in dry cured and fresh varieties. This is a fresh sausage. 

Beyond my interest in charcuterie, I was delighted to find a recipe that features bitter (Seville) oranges, which I have been lately extremely excited about using. Seville oranges are now becoming more readily available in the United States. (If you don't think you can get your hands on Seville oranges there is a substitution you can make.)
Achiote (annatto seed) paste can be found in the Mexican aisle of your grocer or at Latino markets (or see link below). Hog casings can be ordered in advance from your local butcher in specified lengths at a per foot price or purchased online at Butcher & Packer or Sausage Maker (see link below for inexpensive purchase of a small quantity).
Longaniza Tabasqueña
--adapted from My Mexico by Diana Kennedy
2 lbs well-marbled pork shoulder
14 garlic cloves, chopped
1 TBS kosher salt
1 tsp black peppercorns
a heaping 1/4 tsp lightly roasted cumin seeds
1 TBS achiote paste
1/2 cup plus 2 TBS bitter orange juice* 

approx 4 ft hog casings, soaked in tepid water for at least 30 minutes and rinsed

Trim the sinew from the meat and cut it into small cubes. Grind (or chop VERY fine) the meat, using the small dye of a meat grinder. Refrigerate the meat. 

Grind the salt, peppercorns, and cumin seeds in a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle. Smash the garlic to a paste and combine with the spice mixture and the achiote. Dilute with 2 TBS bitter orange juice. Take the meat from the refrigerator and gently mix it together with the garlic-achiote-spice paste. Add the rest of the bitter orange juice little by little. Cover and refrigerate overnight. 

Next day, rinse then soak casings in tepid water for 30 minutes. Remove the meat from the refrigerator and stir the meat well to distribute the juices that have collected in the bowl. Stuff the meat into the casings, fairly loosely, making approx 11 inch lengths (You should get about 3 long sausages). Tie securely and hang to dry in the refrigerator for 3 days. 

Typically this type of longaniza is grilled whole. It will keep in the fridge for approx 3 weeks, but will continue to dry out. You can coat it lightly with lard and freeze it after the first three days of drying if you want to keep it longer than that.

If you can't get your hands on Seville oranges, substitute their juice in the recipe with this: 
2 TBS fresh grapefruit juice
2 TBS fresh orange juice
1 tsp finely grated grapefruit rind
1/4 fresh lime juice

Mix together about 1 hour before using.

As usual, send me your photos and impressions and I will post them in roughly a month's time. 

Filed under  //   Seville oranges   make it!   pork   sausage  

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Easy-Peasy: Crab & Sour Orange Spaghetti

My pal Stephanie just set me up with a wealth of crab. I spent the better part of Wednesday evening cracking it all and was left with 2-1/2 lbs of beautiful lump crab meat.

 

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I searched and searched through recipes trying to decide what to make with this marvelous bounty. Mostly, I was uninspired. There were two recipes I ran across that completely challenged my culinary imagination: Mushroom and Crab Chowder from the San Francisco Chronicle and Crab Cakes with Wasabi-Caper Sauce from the new Gourmet Today. I will probably have to make both of these, but right then I couldn't be bothered trying something crazy that I couldn't even get my brain around. I wanted to make a dish that was easy, quick, and tasty. 
I thought about what I had on hand. At first I considered crab and lemon risotto and I probably would have made it if I had had the time. But alas, no time to stand over a pot for 45 minutes that night. I decided to fall back on our quick dinner mainstay: pasta. I was thinking a lemon, garlic butter, crab thing would be good. Then I had a flash of inspiration. What about those sour Seville oranges hanging out in the pantry? Oh, yes. Oh. Yes. 
This recipe needs a little bit of spice to pull the flavors together, so even if you don't like the hot stuff, drop in just a pinch. It takes all of about 15 minutes to make. 
Crab & Sour Orange Spaghetti
(feeds 2 big people and 2 little people)
1 lb spaghetti

6 TBS butter

5 cloves garlic, chopped
Zest of 2 Seville (sour) oranges (*substitute lemons if you can't get sour oranges)
Juice of 1 Seville orange
1-1/3 cups lump crab meat
Salt 
Crushed Red Pepper to taste

Bring buttered, salted water to a boil. When the water is ready add the pasta. 

Meanwhile, melt butter in a skillet over medium-low heat. Add garlic and sauté a couple of minutes. Add orange zest. (Butter will foam up.) Sauté for a couple of minutes more. Keep warm over low heat. 

Before draining pasta reserve 2 cups pasta water. 

Drain pasta and put in a large bowl. Pour garlic orange butter over the noodles. Add crab. Squeeze the juice of one Seville orange over the pasta and slowly add pasta water until the noodles are moist and ever-so-slightly saucy. Mix well. Salt to taste and add crushed red pepper. 
I just finished off the leftovers from last night and the unique flavor of the orange with the spice is terrific. mmmm.

Filed under  //   Seville oranges   crab   easy peasy   lemons   pasta  

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